Nestled in the Ebro Valley, with dramatic views of the Cantabrian Mountain range in the north of Spain, lies the tiny village of Oyón. It is here that the Martínez Bujanda Family has been grape growers and wine makers since 1889. Taking into the account that the regions greatest resources lie in the incredible combination of an ideal climate and fertile soil, the founder of this family enterprise, Joaquin Martinez Bujanda founder and father of Jesus Martínez Bujanda, decided early on that controlling his grape supply would be critical to the success of his business. Thus, he set about buying and planting vineyards at the same time he broke ground on the original cellar.

Throughout the years, each successive generation has maintained the focus on the quality of grapes themselves as being the most important aspect in making great wine. As the years went on and the company profited more and more from their efforts, these profits were continually put back into the business in the form of buying and planting more vineyards. In a region that depends heavily on grapes grown by independent growers and cooperatives (86% of all vineyard owners cultivate less than 10 acres under vine), Conde de Valdemar relies exclusively on their own 1,000+ acres of vineyards located in the most prominent areas of the region. The family has been purchasing vineyards for more than a century and are considered expert at the selection and maintenance of the regions finest locations. This knowledge, along with control of their own vineyards allows them to grow grapes to their exacting standards and to harvest based on maturity of the grapes, not on the timetable of companies whose name is not found in conjunction with the final wines.

Today, with the fifth generation firmly entrenched in day-to-day operations the family has amassed over 1,000 acres of vineyards throughout the Rioja region. In 1984, after nearly 100 years as a mainstay in the Rioja region, Jesus’ Martínez Bujanda and his father designed and built a state of the art winemaking complex in Oyón, just a few hundred yards from the original bodega. Following the philosophy of his father, Jesús Sr., who believes in the three “L’s” of winemaking – limpia, limpia, limpia (clean, clean, clean), the winery complex is one of the most technologically sophisticated in Europe. Each step of the winemaking process has its own building within the winery complex to avoid any microbiological problems.

Throughout the 1980’s and 1990’s. Conde de Valdemar wines were pioneers in modernizing the style of the region’s wines. The current fashion of “High Expression” Rioja (including the Inspiración line) was given roots when the Martínez Bujanda family pushed the envelope of classic Rioja wines with their fresh, fruit-driven style. Keeping in mind that the best wine is made in the vineyard, they aim for expression of the fruit complimented by appropriate aging in French and American oak barrels.

The winery maintains its experimental roots today and continually looks for better ways to do things. They recognize the difference between improvements and change simply for the sake of change and they guard against the latter.

THE VINEYARDS

The Denominacion de Origen Calificada Rioja is divided into three sub regions, which are: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja. As each region has different characteristics and even within each region, different vineyards possess different microclimates, the Martínez Bujanda family has always given great consideration to vineyard sites in order to have a mix that includes takes in all of the different qualities that Rioja has to offer. Thus among their 1,000 acres of vineyards, they have parcels spread throughout Rioja. In the high altitude Rioja Alta, comprised primarily of alluvial soil, calcareous clay and ferruginous clay, they own 336 acres. This area is known for wines with great acidity and structure built for long aging. The Rioja Alavesa terrain is mostly terraced and consists of mostly limestone and clay. It produces wines with great finesse and classic flavors in the local varietals. The family owns 244 acres here. The Rioja Baja is comprised of alluvial clay with large areas of ferruginous and calcareous clay. Wines from this region contribute body and color. Martínez Bujanda owns two spectacular vineyards in a privileged area in the north of the region near the Ebro River that total 379 acres.

Bodegas Valdemar produces world-class wines from traditional and non-indigenous grape varieties. In addition to cultivating popular Rioja varieties such as Tempranillo for red wine and Viura for white wine, the Martinez Bujanda family has helped revive interest in older, traditional varieties such as Mazuelo, Malvasia and Graciano. Mazuelo in particular, was a grape that fell out of favor due to its low yields and the need to age wines from this grape longer, making it a more costly varietal to use. The Bujanda’s, however, feel that the higher acidity Mazuelo imparts to their wines provides a structure that stands up to a greater variety of foods. They believe, according to Jesús, that “wines should age very slowly, yet still be enjoyable in their youth.”

At the forefront of Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation in Rioja, the Martínez Bujanda family, with special permission from the Consejo Regulador, began planting Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in 1982. They currently own 27 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards and frequently provide the Consejo Regulador with research on this sometimes controversial varietal.

VINIFICATION

Prior to harvesting, frequent tests determine the precise moment to begin grape-picking in each vineyard area. The grapes are hand-harvested. Once the grapes reach the winery, only those that arrive in whole and perfect condition are retained. Any juice that may result from the transit is drained off and sold in bulk.

All fermentation (with the exception of the barrel-fermented, single vineyard, Alto de Cantabria) takes place in stainless steel tanks equipped with refrigeration and hot water units. Temperature for the white and rosé wines is regulated by cooling jackets. The reds are cooled by water that runs over the top and down the sides of the fermentation tanks. Extended maceration under optimal conditions gives the wines more depth and character.